Notes from Solderless Metal Earrings Class, 6/15/05

 

Instructor: Wendy Witchner

Location: Bead and Button Show @ Milwaukee, Wisconsin, 2005

 

Note: As these notes include substantial information from Wendy’s materials, I requested – and subsequently received – permission to publish these notes.

 

Materials:

  • Tools

·        Scissors (aka Snips).  Used to cut wire and silver sheeting.

·        Checkering Files.  Used to create texture on silver.

·        Dapping Block.  Used to create domes.

·        Metal Hole Punch (or Fiskars hand drill)

·        Texture Hammers.  These were created by Wendy by tooling a pattern into existing hammer heads.

·        Needle-nosed pliers

·        (optional) Steel Wool (if you use liver sulfate)

·        (optional) Bench Block

  • Materials

·        18 or 20 gauge sterling wire for ear wires

·        24 gauge sterling sheets for bezels (not used in class, but useful to know for reference)

  • Creating Texture - Metal Screen, Large Screw, Washer, Liver Sulfate

 

Getting Started -- Preparing the Materials:

  • Texture.  Using the provided materials to create texture – hammer metal screen into metal sheets, create holes and ridges by hammering the large screw into metal, or by hammering the washer into metal sheeting. 

 

Other Useful Info

  • Tumbling.  Use super sanshen burnishing compound (use more than recommended) with stainless steel shot.  After tumbling, rinse.

 

Techniques:

During the class, Wendy provided the materials and instruction for 3 different pairs of earrings:

  • Round Disc Earrings
  • Oval Disc Earrings
  • Triangle Earrings

 

Of course each of these are distinctly Wendy’s work, but this gives you an idea of the variety of things that you can create without soldering.  At some point, I will add photos of the earrings I created to give you a sense of what you’re aiming for with each project.  With that said, I highly recommend that you take a class from Wendy if you’re interested in these techniques.  These notes are not intended to replace attending Wendy’s class.

Round Disc Earrings

Materials:

  • 2, ¾” long, 24 gauge round discs
  • 2, half hard 20 gauge silver wire
  • 2, 24 gauge gold filled discs
  • 2 twisted silver roundel beads

 

Instructions:

  • Line up the center of the largest disc. 
    Using a marking pen, nail or screw, mark the center
    Then, using a hole punch, punch a hole through the center of each disc.
  • Dap to form a domed surface.
  • Use checkering file to texture surface.
    (Note: Checkering file creates almost a matt surface by scratching the silver linearly.  It can be moved around to create cross hatch, etc.)
    (Hint: Normally, you would texture the metal before dapping – except when using the checkering file for texture.)
  • Mark the center of the gold disc and punch a hole.  Dap this one as well.
  • Thread the silver disc, gold disc, and the silver roundel bead onto the 20 gauge silver wire. 
  • Form the earwire.

 

 

Oval Disc Earrings

Materials:

  • 2, 15x20mm 24 gauge silver oval discs
  • 2, small copper roves
  • 2 twisted roundel beads
  • 2 silver tube beads
  • 2, 2mm silver beads
  • 20 gauge half hard silver wire

 

Instructions:

This set of earrings is basically the same as the Round Disc Earrings, except:

  • Flatten the copper rove into a disc form.  Texture it, and dap it.
    (Note: Due to the size of the copper rove, only expect a faint dome.)

 

Silver Triangle Earrings

Materials:

  • 24 gauge silver sheet
  • 2 small copper rovers
  • 20 gauge silver twisted wire
  • 20 gauge half hard silver wire
  • 2 bali beads
  • 2, 2mm silver beads

 

Instructions:

  • Texture the sheet of silver metal.  Use texture techniques learned earlier in class.

  • Either trace the triangle that’s included, or make one of your own to trace.
    Keep in mind that you must have 2 triangles cut out of this one sheet of silver.
    Using your metal scissors, cut the triangles out.  File the edges so they are not sharp.

  • Flatten the copper rove and texture.

  • Mark the hole placement for the center piece and the earwire hole.
  • Punch out the holes in triangle.

  • Use the dapping block to dome triangles and copper rove.
    (Use peen side of your hammer.)|

  • Using needle-nosed pliers, take the 20 gauge twisted wire and bend the start of the smallest circle you can make to begin a flat circle. 
    Rotate it so you have 1 ½ wraps in the spiral.
    (Hint: it’s essential that the circle is the smallest possible.  To do this, the starting point must be very tight.)
  • Flatten the spiral by hammering it.

  • Pass the other end of the 20 gauge twisted wire through the copper disc,
    then through the front of the center hole of the silver triangles so it comes out the back.
    You should now have the spiral sitting on the copper disc that is atop the silver triangle.

  • Pull the twisted wire tight and bend it back flat against the back of the triangle at a right angle.  It should be pointed down to the bottom point of the triangle.
    Use your pliers to adjust and tighten the wire where needed.

  • Bend the tail of the wire in to a zig zag design and trim to the length you want.
    You may have to adjust the center spirals to they lay centered, and the tails of each earring match.
    (NOTE: Unless a miracle occurs, you WILL have to adjust.  This is a difficult step, so be patient.)

 

  • Using the 20 gauge smooth wire, bend the lower third of it at a right angle.
    With the remaining wire on the longest end, bend it back around your thumb to shape it into an ear wire.  Trim each one so they match.

 

  • Attach the wires by looping each through the top hole of the triangles, and bending to secure them.
    Add a bali bead, followed by a 2mm silver bead.

 

  • Hammer the top of the ear wire flat.  This will help to ensure that the beads will not fall off.

 

  • You may use a small touch of super glue to anchor spots to keep them from moving around.

 

  • File the ends of the earwires and any sharp edges that might still exist.

 

  • The earrings may be dipped in a warm bath of liver sulfate to darken. 
    If you do, brush with steel wool and polish.

 

 

Resources:

(Note: this is a preliminary list based on web searching.  I haven’t had a chance to gain any first hand knowledge with these sources with the exception of Rio Grande.)

www.wendywitchner-jewelry.com.  Wendy’s – aka the instructor – web-site. 

E-mail is wirewen@hotmail.com

www.leejewelrycrafttools.com.  General supplier for jewelry tools.

www.riogrande.com.  General supplier for tools and findings.  You’ll want to order the catalogs (and there are several) as there really isn’t anything on the web-site. 

www.thunderbirdsupply.com.  General supplier of tools and findings, but wholesale only.

http://urbanmaille.com/default.asp.  Supplier of chain link kits, jump rings, etc.