Notes from Beaded Kumihimo Braid Core with Pendant Class, 6/12/05

 

Instructor: Alethia Donathan

Location: Bead and Button Show @ Milwaukee, Wisconsin, 2005

 

Note: As these notes include substantial  information from Alethia’s class materials, I requested permission to publish these notes. (These notes also include significant information that I captured during class.)  I received no response to my request – approving or denying my request.  With that said, these notes are not intended to replace attending Alethia’s class.

 

Background Info:

  • Apparatus is the Marudai meaning “mirror” (maru), “image” (dai), but more interesting is the meaning which is loosely -- what you do on the table top (aka the mirror) reflects below.
  • Bobbins used on the marudai are called tamas.
  • In class, we used the 80 gram tamas with old deep fishing weights as counterweights. 
    (Hint: To get a looser weave, use a heavier counterweight.)

 

Materials:

In addition to the marudai, you need threads.  In class we used rat tail, but it created a braid that was too thick for my taste (about 12 mm wide) – particularly, since I’m interested in the braids for necklaces. 

  • Thread must be a twisted ply thread.  It cannot be a single ply (as it will deteriorate based on the bobbins and counterweight).
  • Biron or Silk are traditionally used.
  • Mastex (upholstery thread, 3 ply) was used during class as an additional thread to hold size 8 beads.
  • Beads.  Most common used size is 8/0 seed beads.  If you are working with Biron (silk), mastex or any thin threads, you can use sizes 8/0 through 11/0 seed beads.  The instructor usually strings all of her beads on Mastex (Upholstery Nylon Thread).
  • Can also use chain, wire, etc.

 

Detailed Info:

Counterweights should be half the total weight.  (ex: with 4 80g tamas, use 160g counterweights)

To get a looser weave, use a heavier counterweight.

 

 

Basic Braid (in class the round braid was made first):

(Note that these are rough notes from the class.  I have an additional written description – provided hardcopy only by the instructor  -- that I have not attempted to reproduce here.)

 

Instructions:

  • Prepare your threads.  Treat them with Scotch guard before using them.
  • Collect your threads.  Depending on the threads, you may 2x – 3x the desired length of the finished product.  (Example: If you want a 24” necklace, you may need 48 – 72” of thread.  It really depends on the thread.  For instance, rat tail needs 3x on each of the bobbins when you’re using 4 bobbins.  However, class notes recommended 1.5x when using 4 – 8 bobbins, and, when using 16 bobbins, use 2x.).
  • Setup the threads.  To do this,
    1. Match one end of all of the threads.  Come down approximately 3 – 4” and make a knot with the entire bundle. 
    2. Split the short end of your bundle into 2 sections.  Insert chopstick and tie a double knot above the chopstick to hold it securely.
    3. Insert the stick into the center of the marudai, and tie a single knot at the end of each strand.
  • Attach the bobbins with a larks-head knot.  To do this,
    1. Place thumb and index finger up inside of the thread. 
    2. Turn your finger and thumb down around the outside of the string to form two loops.
    3. Bring the two loops together and pass the threads through the knot.  Pull until tight.
    4. Repeat for all bobbins. 
  • Wind the bobbins.  To do this,
    1. Keeping your threads taught, roll the leader and warp threads smoothly onto the bobbin. 
    2. Wind your bobbins up towards the mirror of the loom so that the warp threads are feeding from underneath. 
    3. Stop winding when the bobbin is approximately 16” from the top of the marudai.
    4. Hold the bobbin in your left hand.  Place the palm of your right hand on top of the threads (away from the bobbin), and tuck your thumb under the threads.
    5. Twist your right hand so that your palm is up and the warp threads form a loop around your fingers.  Bring your bobbin into the loop from underneath and have the loop wrapped around the center of the bobbin.
  • Attach the counterweight with a larks-head knot.  To do this,
    1. Place thumb and index finger up inside of the thread.
    2. Turn your finger and thumb down around the outside of the string to form two loops. 
    3. Bring the two loops together and attach the counterweight to your bundle.
    4. Remove the knotted thread.
  • Periodically adjust the bobbins and counterweights as your braid takes shape. 
    Note that you never want your counterweights to reach the ground. 
  • When you want to take a break, slide your chopstick between the warp threads, above the point of braiding, but underneath the mirror.
  • Now you’re ready to begin! 
    1. Remove the chopstick
    2. Realign the threads relative to the knot.
    3. Remember after each step to ensure that you’re aligned at N, S, E & W
    4. And, periodically check your bobbins and counterweights.
  • To finish your braid,
    1. Insert the stick between your finished braid and the bottom of the mirror.
    2. Before removing your bobbins and leaders, wrap a thread tightly with a double knot at the end of the braid to stop it from unraveling.
    3. Slide your counterweight down and cut threads from the leader.
    4. Trim all excess threads and dip ends in E6000.  Insert into end cap (finding) and let dry for 24 hours.
  • (Hint: to get straight ends on the end of a piece – particularly if you want to end with a tassel --  wrap the ends in paper, keeping the ends flat, then cut through the paper and the threads.)

 

Round Braid (aka basic braid)

A tight round braid with a spiral design is achieved by using just two movements. 

“Opposites, parallel cross”.

 

Outer Beaded Braid (using 4 bobbin modified ladder braid)

 

Materials:

  • 8/0 or 11/0 beads (see Materials on previous page)
  • Finished piece

 

Instructions:

  • Collect your threads. 
    1. Beads are added to 2 – 4 bobbins.  To determine the length of thread with 8/0 beads, divide your desired finished length by 3. 
      Note: during class, this was too short; suggest dividing desired length by 2 vs. 3.
    2. Add beads to four strands for the desired length as determined above.
  • Setup the threads.  To do this,
    1. Match one end of all of the threads.  Come down approximately 3 – 4” and make an overhand knot with the entire bundle (in this case four threads).
    2. Taking another piece of thread, match the overhand knot to one wrapped end of a finished braid, and make another wrap.  (This is done to introduce your finished piece, in the class of the class project where we were adding beads to an existing braid.)
    3. Split the short end of your bundle into 2 sections.  Insert chopstick and tie a double knot above the chopstick to hold it securely.
    4. Insert the stick into the center of the marudai, and tie a single knot at the end of each strand.

You should now have a total of five (5) strands including one finished braid and 4 strands of Mastex with beads strung on the thread.

  • Repeat the steps above including:
    1. Attach the bobbins with a larks-head knot.
    2. Wind the bobbins.
    3. Attach the counterweight with a larks-head knot.
  • Now you’re ready to begin! 
    1. Remove the chopstick
    2. Realign the threads relative to the knot.
    3. Remember after each step to ensure that you’re aligned at N, S, E & W
    4. And, periodically check your bobbins and counterweights.
  • The movements are captured in the 4 bobbin modified ladder braid diagram, but you’ll want to use the instructions below to properly introduce the beads into the braid.

1.      Begin and end your braiding with one sequence of no beads.
(Note: in class, the instructor indicated that two – three sequences should be done w/no beads.)

2.      Do moves 1, 2, 1, 2 with no beads.

3.      Add 7 beads from every bobbin.

4.      Move pre-made braid from West to East.

5.      Do moves 1, 2, 1, 2.

6.      Add 7 beads from every bobbin.

7.      Move pre-made braid from East to West.

 

4 Bobbin Modified Ladder Braid

(used in class to add an outer beaded braid to the round braid)

 

 

NOTE:

·        With each step, the premade piece (West initially, is moved from side-to-side.)

·        At the beginning, do 2 – 3 moves w/o beads on the North and South threads.

 

 

  • Remember :
    • Periodically adjust the bobbins and counterweights as your braid takes shape. 
      Note that you never want your counterweights to reach the ground. 
    • When you want to take a break, slide your chopstick between the warp threads, above the point of braiding, but underneath the mirror.
  • To finish your braid,
    1. Insert the stick between your finished braid and the bottom of the mirror.
    2. Before removing your bobbins and leaders, wrap a thread tightly with a double knot at the end of the braid to stop it from unraveling.
    3. Slide your counterweight down and cut threads from the leader.
    4. Trim all excess threads and dip ends in E6000.  Insert into end cap (finding) and let dry for 24 hours.
  • (Hint: to get straight ends on the end of a piece – particularly if you want to end with a tassel --  wrap the ends in paper, keeping the ends flat, then cut through the paper and the threads.)

 

Attaching a Pendant

Materials:

  • 1 yard of Mastex, 1.5 yards of Mastex.
  • Gemstone Donut

 

Instructions:

  • Cut 1 yard of Mastex, and 1.5 yards of Mastex.
  • Make a Larks-Head knot to create an embellishment around ¼ of the donut.  To do this,

1.      Fold the 1 yard length of Mastex in half, and feed the loop through the hole in the donut (from front to back).  Slip the tails through the loop.  The loop is now aligned on the edge of the donut, and the tails extend from the donut outward from the donut edge.

2.      Working with only the right hand cord, thread a seed bead and push it close to the donut.

3.      Feed the thread into the donut hole (again front to back), and bring the end through the loop of the cord up towards you.

4.      Next, bring the cord behind the donut through the hole (back to front) and slip the cord through the loop.

5.      Repeat until you have covered ¼ of the donut.

6.      To end, thread a bead and tie a knot. 
(Based on experience in class, this is easier said then done.  The knot must be very close to the donut, and unfortunately requires glue.)

  • Now, using only the left hand cord, repeat on the other ¼ of the donut to create a semicircle centered around where you attached the mastex to the donut.
  • Complete the embellishment and attach your focal beads to the pendant.  To do this:

1.      Bring the two ends together, add a bead, and tie an overhand knot.

2.      String your pendant and tie another knot.

3.      Drop fray check or crystal cement and cut.

  • Attach the donut plus focal to the braid.  To do this:

1.      Loop the 1.5 yard length of Mastex around the donut and your braid cord 2 – 3 times to make the core of the square knot.

2.      Take the right knotting cord and lay it on top of the braid core, and
behind the left knotting cord.

3.      Use a square knot, to create a loop that connects the donut and the braid.

a.       Place the left knotting cord over the core and under the right knotting cord.

b.      Bring the right hand cord under the core and up through the loop on the left (that’s made by the first pass of the knotting string, of the core).

c.       Tighten by pulling gently on the knotting cords.

d.      Place the knotting strand on the right over the core and under the left knotting cord.

e.       Bring the left knotting cord under the core cords and up through the loop created by the right hand cord. 

f.        Tighten by pulling gently on the knotting cords.

g.       Repeat until the core is covered.

Spiral Stitch: 

(We did not do this one in class.)

Setup Note: the Threads on the North and South positions are 2x the length of the threads in the East and West position.

 

Resources:

(Note: this is a preliminary list based on web searching.  I haven’t had a chance to gain any first hand knowledge with these sources.)

www.braidershand.com.  As quoted on their site, “makers of quality Japanese style kumihimo equipment: marudai, takadai, and tama.  Purveyors of books, kumihimo silk, biron and metallic threads for braiding. 

www.braidsociety.org : Additional resources via web sites of its members, teaches, and suppliers.

www.braidweaver.com : Additional resources – artists, teachers, interest groups, suppliers.

www.careycompany.com : Jacqui Carey’s site.  In addition to being one of the prominent authors of books on Kumihimo, Jacqui also offers related materials on this site.  During class, Jacqui Carey’s Beginner’s Guide to Braiding – the Craft of Kumihimo was recommended.  Follow-up books include Beads & Braids as well as Creative Kumihimo.  The latter apparently gets into the less traditional aspects of Kumihimo.  I found that all of these were available on www.amazon.com.

www.dacsbeads.com : Alethia Donathan’s site.  Alethia was the instructor for my first kumihimo class.  And, something to look forward to in 2006 – Alethia will be releasing a DVD on Kumihimo braiding.

www.lacis.com : biron, silk

www.mtnloom.com : marudais, silk

www.rodrickowen.com : Rodrick Owen’s site.  Another of the prominent authors of books on Kumihimo.  One relating to kumihimo braiding on a marudai is Braids – 250 Patterns from Japan, Peru and Beyond.  I didn’t find this one on Amazon, but Rodrick’s site points to www.braidershands.com as a resource for this book.  Our instructor indicated that Rodrick visits the US for periodic workshops, but there’s little planned for 2005 on his site.  Maybe next year will be better.

www.weavershand.com : As advertised – an information page for weavers.  Check out the Kumihimo galleries as well as instruction, source and braider’s websites.